Wyoming Woody Teardrop Plans

Here is the architectural diagrams derived from the SketchUp model for the Wyoming Woody Teardrop. It is in PDF form so it should be easy to view from about any device or print if you choose.

A quick note about use of this document. Much of my personal time, effort, and creativity has gone into its creation. The result would not be as good if it were not for the help of countless others in the wonderful teardrop community who offered advice or techniques and never asked for a penny in return. It is in that spirit that I want to ensure that this document remain open for use in the teardrop building community. Therefore I am releasing it under the “copyleft” license detailed here


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  • John Plum

    Thank you so much for putting this up. Your trailer is the inspiration for me starting on mine this weekend, and while I have been able to follow your excellent forum posts for the most part, this’ll be a huge help!

    • ryan_teardropbuilder

      Your more than welcome! Good luck on your build!

      • John

        A very good heads-up. I’ve always thought it made sense to build the galley cabinets as slide in from the rear units. This allows easy access for internal panels install/removal or the mattress. Serious planning though….

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  • Cindy Weglarz

    I am impressed at the details you documented during the building of your trailer. My husband and I would like to build our own and this is an amazing site for a wealth of information. Thank you for your willingness to share so freely what you learned.

    Cindy Weglarz

    • ryan_teardropbuilder

      Thank you, and good luck!

  • ukewarrior .

    How much does the finished trailer weigh?

    • ryan_teardropbuilder

      Almost exactly 1,000 pounds unloaded.

      • Paul

        What does that include? Propane tank? Storage Box? I’m trying to get a hitch for a Ford Fiesta and total recommended weight is 1500lbs to 1 ton.

        • Everything but gear, food, and loaded cooler. Battery and bed are included. You will be hard pressed to hit 1200 pounds with everything. Btw, we just use the small 1# propane tanks for our Coleman grill. They fit right in the cupboard next to the grill!

          • Paul

            Ryan…have a question for you on the plans. Could you email me at [email protected], please?

          • Paul

            Ryan…still looking to get some specific help from you. I left my email in the comment previous. I’m just in some help with adjustments.

          • Jonesy

            Hi Paul, I might be able to help. I am putting the finishing touches on mine.

          • Paul

            Ryan reached out to me and I asked him a couple questions, but I think he is super busy. I’m trying to lengthen the teardrop so I can get a standard queen in there (I’m 6’5″ tall), but I know that will change the balancing point of the trailer. I’m also thinking about putting water tanks in trailer frame, but needed advice on that, too.

          • Pat Patterson Jr.

            The oldschool way if you’re not an autocad genius like Ryan is to build it without axle mounts. Load as per a trip, support on two jack stands under the sides where you think the axle will sit. Support the front tongue on a bathroom scale and shift the stands around to get what you want. It’s best if you know the exact weight then put 10-15% on the hitch.

            You can use a bathroom scale to get all your weights like this.
            Just don’t use glass topped scales… Sorry dear.

  • Robert

    Where do you get plans

  • John

    Ryan, I tried to find the interior measurements, did I miss them? I’m trying to figure out the size of the bed you can fit in your design.

    • John

      Ok, I think I found it. 76 inches. So you’ve designated it for a standard full size bed? 54×74?

      • Sorry I wasn’t fast enough on the reply. 🙂 The dimensions for the bed space are 59 1/4″ x 76″ or a short Queen size, a standard Queen is 60″ x 80″.

        • John

          I may try and adjust design for a standard queen.

          • One note of caution if you plan on using a standard mattress, have a plan for squeezing it through the door once your teardrop is complete. I know of a few builders that had this exact problem! I used a 4″ thick HD foam mattress which is relitively inexpensive, folds easily, and is very easy to cut down to whatever size you need. Amazingly it is even more comfortable than my bed at home.

            Good luck!

          • Scott Riggle

            Ikea sells their extremely comfortable mattresses rolled up and vacuum sealed. Should fit right through the door then cut it open and let it expand.

          • Pat Patterson Jr.

            Make sure you have a plan for getting it back out. Leaks and spills happen. When I rebuilt my slide in truck camper I put an expensive Sealy in… 2 years later a branch came in the roof, I had to remove the front again to dry it out.

            I too want a full size queen, but sadly it’ll be foam for this reason. The bonus is 2 piece foam is easy to lift up for underfloor storage of emergency items such as spare tires and the like. Again from full size RV use I recommend making a fabric sleeve for the foam mattress. If the 2 mattresses total 1/2 to 1″ wider than the space you’ll never have separation issues or fall in the “crack”

  • Impressive plans and work. I am a boatbuilder and am inspired to build one of these sweet little “land boats.” I certainly like yours the best!

  • Michelle A Stutzman

    wow 2 of my family are free
    ty ty ty

  • Steph Hendrick

    I love this teardrop, but am having trouble with the PDF. I right click, but it only wants to save as a html file. Is there another place I can download the pdf of the plans? Thank you!

    • Left click, don’t do a right click and “Save AS”. For some reason it won’t work with the download plugin I am using for the website.

  • 124Spider

    Any idea how much it costs to build? It is beautiful.

  • Jonesy
    • WOW, AMAZING work! Nice job on the glassing! I had considered cedar at one point but was unsure how I would get it to work.

      I need more pictures when you are done!

    • Steve

      @disqus_DR8ZVl9AEi:disqus …what make and model is your trailer? And where did you purchase
      PS ~ Your TD looks awesome. How many hours do you figure it took you?

      • Jonesy

        Hi Steve,
        Thanks… I bought the trailer from Northern Tool ($629.00…on sale..free delivery)
        Its the aluminum version which is about 100 lbs lighter than the steel one.

        As far as hrs spent…i never really kept track. If i had to guess it would be around the 500 hr mark. The most time consuming part was the cedar stripping.

        Have you started your build ?


        • Steve

          Thanks and no, haven’t started. I’ll be ordering the trailer this week! Your exterior looks fab. What are the dims of the cedar strips_planks you used?

          • Jonesy

            Thx Steve,Each strip is 3/4″wide by 1/4″ thick. I have built a canoe using the same size strips. The sides of the TD are thinner, maybe 1/8″thick.
            Good luck on your build !! It was a lot of fun for me.

            Could not have done it without Ryan. You da man !!!!!!!!!

          • Steve

            Jonesy….perhaps the last question. 😉
            Using the 3/4″ strips on a flat surface like the sides = no gaps, I get it. But what did you do to address the gaps created when covering the top curvature of the TD? Even though the strips are only 3/4″ wide, there had to have been gaps correct?

          • Jonesy

            The strips for the curve have a “bead” on one side and a “cove” on the other.So when glued together there are no gaps, even when making a curve.The left over pcs where cut and used for the sides.

          • Steve

            Sorry for being the “sucker” of all information Jonesy, but do you have the calc of how many linear feet of strips you ordered/ consumed?

          • Steve

            Re: cove and bead. Did you apply a glue or other sealant to each cove? Or what method did you use for making the cove_bead permanent?

    • Michael Fox

      It looks like the Northern Tool aluminum 5X8 trailer kit. This is the one I’m using and I like the fit and finish of the completed frame. I live on the coast of California where corrosion is a problem so I decided on the aluminum frame. I also used bonded washers, that is a steel washer with a layer of neoprene bonded to one side. I’m hoping this reduces the steel to aluminum contact and prevents electrolysis from the dissimilar metals.

  • Michael Fox

    The Wyoming Woody seems to have quite a following. Thank you for the excellent plans, pictures and discussions. I am planning to start a build in October 2017 and have a question about the plywood thicknesses. The suppliers in my area all carry sheets that are typically 1/32″ undersized. Example: 3/4″ is actually 23/32″. Is this difference significant? The foam insulation is usually true 3/4″. Do you just sand the foam down to 23/32 or will it compress enough to fit?

    Thanks in advance for the reply

    • Nothing to worry about, I think most all plywood is undersized like this. I believe mine was the same thickness as what you are seeing and it didn’t cause any issue for me with the foam or otherwise.

      Good luck on your build!

  • Greg White

    Have been thinking about building a teardrop camper for almost a year. After looking at multiple sets of plans settled on yours due to the high amount of detail. Plus I just liked the look! I have been a cabinet maker for almost 20 years so wood was my choice. It is going very smooth thank you for sharing. Will post some pictures soon.

    • Awesome! Can’t wait to see what a real woodworker can do! Haha

  • Michael Fox

    I have started my build and have aluminum Northern Tool trailer assembled, floor finished and sides cut out. I am now starting to cut the rabbits for the floor and the roof joists. When making the inner template for the roof joists, is it necessary to create the template for the entire length or can the template stop at the rear of the rabbit where the hatch notch is? I am trying to save on materials.
    I hope this question is clear but, if not, let me know and I will try to clarify it.
    Thanks again.

    • Hi Michael, sorry for the late reply. Sounds like you are off to a great start.

      As far as the templates you can easily make due with whatever you have. In fact, I didn’t make much use of the inner templates due to the flush trim bit requiring a thicker material than the 5/8″ thick template material I used to hit the proper depth of the rabbit I required. I instead drew a line and carefully free handed it with a straight bit or used a flush trim bit and larger 3/4″ blocks for the straight sections.

      In fact you could skip the outer template altogether and simply use one wall as the template for the other. You would have some cleaning up to do as a jigsaw does not make as nice a cut as a router, but it is easily done.

      Good luck with your build!