With the wiring runs and both layers of insulation fully installed I was able to close everything up. All the wires were secured to the insulation with electrical tape and silicone was used in all the spar holes to secure the wires from vibration damage.
Here you can see the splice compartment above the electrical compartment. The hole joining the two was enlarged so all the spliced can be pulled down if necessary in the future if I need to perform any maintenance. You can see the other end of the bullet connectors which connect to the hatch umbilical.
At the front of the trailer blocks are installed to mount the main trailer wire harness port to connect the trailer wiring to the tongue box.
I used great stuff to fill in the wire channels.
I used a knife to shave the dried Great Stuff even with the foam insulation.
<span class="dsq-postid" data-dsqidentifier="1624 http://teardropbuilder.com/?p=1624">12 Comments
Looking at your pictures and descriptions I can’t quite tell, did you keep the wiring for the running/brake lights entirely separate from the 12V system running off the battery in the tongue box? Specifically, are the running/brake lights powered by your tow vehicle via a wiring harness?
Yes they are completely separate. The running lights plug into a wiring harness on the tow vehicle, and the connector trailer side originates from the tongue box.
The last three images of this page load image 6227. I was given a trailer this week and found your page. My electrical experience is low. I’d like to know what the controller with the LED screen is in the last picture. Make and model, then I can Google it’s purpose/integration. It looks like a power reading instrument … ? Thanks for the amazing information on the page.
It’s a Turnigy Watt Meter, a fantastic piece of equipment. It displays a wide variety of power stats including current/Max Amp usage, Voltage, Amp/Hr used since power on, etc. I can get a pretty good picture of the overall battery charge by looking at the current voltage.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__75944__Turnigy_180A_Watt_Meter_and_Power_Analyzer.html?strSearch=turnigy%20watt
Good luck on your new trailer!
Great trailer! Can I ask where you got your fuse panel from?
Thank you!
The Fuse block is a Blue Sea Systems 5026 Fuse Block w/cover. I ordered it on Ebay for $45.
Thanks! The Blue Sea stuff looks pretty good, I think I’ll be using them in the future. Cheers!
Ryan, I may have missed it in your write up, but how did you drill those wire runs into the walls? Did you already have the inside skins on when you drilled them? I ask because I am considering the clearance issues of a typical drill and how to go about making those holes in such a tight spot. Example…the tail light run at the bottom that runs between three foam panel cutouts.
Good question! I did my dry fit of the wall panel before applying the inner skins and marked where all the lights and wires should go. At this point you can take down the walls and get a drill in there to drill all your wiring runs. When you are doing this step take the time to account for the number of wires and their width and test that they all fit as expanding the holes once the inside skins are on is very difficult.
If (like me) you missed doing this, you can also just route a channel, and either cover it up, or leave it to be covered up by the outer skin.
Ryan,
I’m almost finished! What is the rocker switch on the interior used to turn on/off? It seems like all of the components have their own on/off switches, so I was just curious what I should splice to those switches.
They turn on/off the outside door lights from the inside. Makes things easier in the middle of the night and you want to take a peek outside.