Toungebox Installation

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For the tongue box I used a Contico Jr Pro Tuff Bin. I have room for the battery, charger, tools, 12v circuit breaker, cutoff switch,  and there is also room for some tools and my wheel chalks. The box has two padlock brackets so I can secure it while we are on the road.

I attached the tongue box with 3/8″ bolts mounted to 1″ square steel tubing mounted across the tongue for support.

I purchased a group 27 marine battery, which should be good for around 100Amp hours and tested the fit in the tongue box.

I cut the tubing to the proper width with a grinding wheel. I needed to make sure it was wide as possible to support the box and battery.

Here is the waterproof wiring connection from the front of the trailer to the tongue box. I am using some conduit and hubs to make it water tight as well as butyl tape and 3M 4000 under the screws and for caulking around the edges.

The view of the wires where they enter the tongue box.

The tongue box with the battery and board mounted master cutoff swtich, 30A circut breaker, and 2 amp battery charger.

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<span class="dsq-postid" data-dsqidentifier="1701 http://teardropbuilder.com/?p=1701">2 Comments

  1. Ryan: Thanks for all of your information. Wonderful site, and I’m using it on my tear drop build. Been struggling with the fit of the tongue box. Are you able to use the crank down on your jack? Looks mighty close to the box. Also, any thoughts on running a conduit from your box under the trailer frame and up near or through the rear bulkhead to your electric panel rather than through the roof? Along with using your basic plans I’m using some of Steve Frederick’s techniques so there is a lot to think through because of his pre-built wall system.

    • Thanks, I’m glad you find it useful!

      To use the crank on the trailer jack I have to pull the pin to unlock it and swivel it to the side. I do this while it is on the hitch or it is light enough to just hold. Not the best solution but it works and I found that I don’t have to change it often.

      There is no reason running the wiring under the frame wouldn’t work. I chose to do it through the roof because it is cleaner and other wiring is already there anyway. Also with the placement of my fuse box in the upper galley area, it is easy to come over the roof and drop into the electrical compartment, if I ran it under the trailer I would have to rethink the location or find way to get it cleanly routed up to that compartment.

      Good luck on your build!