Just curious – you used epoxy on the edges of the walls where they come into contact with the metal frame. However later on for the interior of the trailer you used spar varnish. Any reason you can think of why the Minwax spar varnish wouldn’t work in place of the epoxy on the wall edges? I figure they are both means to solving the same problem of waterproofing the wood.
That should work fine but it is not a permanent water barrier for external uses and might need to be reapplied in the future. Since most water intrusion would occur on the edge that shouldn’t be an issue to reapply if needed. Take a look at Thompson’s Waterseal instead, it is meant for this purpose and might be a better solution.
The reason I used epoxy was that I knew I would never have to think about it again, also I had it laying around and was eager to test it out 🙂
Mickyeadams on
Hi,
I’m starting to get a woodworking tool set and learning to use my router and saws as I gear up to make my first TD using your amazing plans. I see some doors from Vintage Tech measuring 26X36 inches and it looks like I have room to increase the door height. Do you see any issues with this?
Mickye
I agree, I love the look of it. It is near impossible to find in certain parts of the country. Luckily I was able to fine it at Sears Trostel Lumber in Ft. Collins Colorado.
Rob Reynolds on
For doing the curved mortises, I made a custom jig from some scrap wood that set the bit to only going in the right distance, worked well, but if I had more time, I might have made it from plexiglass to allow for more visibility.
Also, I had to cut a portion of my “straight edge” mortises deeper than 1/4″ because of the slight curve in the trailer itself, 1/4″ would not have gotten as good of a gluing surface.
Jonesy on
Just wandering…. Would it be easier to use 1/2″ plywood for the outer skin and 3/8″ baltic birch for the inner wall. Cut both pieces using a template and glue them together. You would have no need to mortise the 3/4″ plywood. It would be slightly heavier and you would only have 1/2″ insulation in the wall cavities. But i think it would be much faster and your shop wouldn’t be covered in dust?
<span class="dsq-postid" data-dsqidentifier="1610 http://teardropbuilder.com/?p=1610">10 Comments
It’s probably right in front of me somewhere but what did you skin the inside of the walls with?
5’x5′ 1/8″ baltic birch plywood.
Hey Ryan,
Just curious – you used epoxy on the edges of the walls where they come into contact with the metal frame. However later on for the interior of the trailer you used spar varnish. Any reason you can think of why the Minwax spar varnish wouldn’t work in place of the epoxy on the wall edges? I figure they are both means to solving the same problem of waterproofing the wood.
That should work fine but it is not a permanent water barrier for external uses and might need to be reapplied in the future. Since most water intrusion would occur on the edge that shouldn’t be an issue to reapply if needed. Take a look at Thompson’s Waterseal instead, it is meant for this purpose and might be a better solution.
The reason I used epoxy was that I knew I would never have to think about it again, also I had it laying around and was eager to test it out 🙂
Hi,
I’m starting to get a woodworking tool set and learning to use my router and saws as I gear up to make my first TD using your amazing plans. I see some doors from Vintage Tech measuring 26X36 inches and it looks like I have room to increase the door height. Do you see any issues with this?
Mickye
Not at all. A few have used the larger doors with no problem. Good luck to you and keep us updated!
Cheers!
Okoume looks very nice with the proper label. Where did you purchase it? Thanks!
I agree, I love the look of it. It is near impossible to find in certain parts of the country. Luckily I was able to fine it at Sears Trostel Lumber in Ft. Collins Colorado.
For doing the curved mortises, I made a custom jig from some scrap wood that set the bit to only going in the right distance, worked well, but if I had more time, I might have made it from plexiglass to allow for more visibility.
Also, I had to cut a portion of my “straight edge” mortises deeper than 1/4″ because of the slight curve in the trailer itself, 1/4″ would not have gotten as good of a gluing surface.
Just wandering…. Would it be easier to use 1/2″ plywood for the outer skin and 3/8″ baltic birch for the inner wall. Cut both pieces using a template and glue them together. You would have no need to mortise the 3/4″ plywood. It would be slightly heavier and you would only have 1/2″ insulation in the wall cavities. But i think it would be much faster and your shop wouldn’t be covered in dust?