Building the Cabinets


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The face frames covered the edges of the plywood and attached nicely with the tongue and groove joints.  At some intersections some tongue material had to be removed so the face frames could fit correctly. This following picture shows an example of this as the vertical grove in the cabinet was trimmed to make room for the horizontal face frame to meet flush with the vertical face frame.


With the cabinets fully assembled I could now build the box for the drawer.

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I had to make 2 spacers in order to mount the sliders up past the lip and flush with the cabinet frame. I used Accuride sliders need very precise spacing to operate correctly so I had to sand the sliders a bit to get it just right so it wouldn’t stick. The sliders are self closing and provide some resistance to being opened which works out great for a teardrop which is on the move.

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  • Mark Ketting

    Hi Ryan

    I’m having difficulty seeing how much ply I need for the cabinets. It’s a little difficult to add up all the components of the cabinets to identify how many sheets of ply I should pick-up from the hardware store. Do you have any pointers for me?


    • I had to go back and check my parts list page since I couldn’t quite remember. I used 1 5×5 3/4″ (18mm) and 4 5×5 1/2″ (12mm) sheets or baltic birch plywood for the cabinets.

      If you have been using my SketchUp model you can create the virtual plywood sheets and break each cabinet piece out of the model and overlay it on the sheet to plan your cuts. If you want to very clean look watch the grain on the wood and make sure the grain goes the same way for similar components. In my case horizontal surfaces the grain was side to side, for the vertical pieces the grain went top to bottom. With the cabinet and drawer front I used cuts from the same section so the grain lines matched across pieces.

      Good Luck!

  • Michael

    Hi Ryan-

    are there any concerns in your opinion using only 1/2″ thick baltic birch vs a mix of 1/2″ & 3/4″ thick baltic birch for the rear cabinets? I see you mixed both thicknesses, but I’m not sure why 3/4″ is needed after all?


    • Mark Ketting

      IIRC the 3/4″ is for the vertical weight-bearing walls and for the main bench. In both cases I’d not skimp on the 3/4″.